 |
| Flakstad Beach |
We researched lots about how to get there, where to stay, places to visit and even down to driving conditions! We booked everything ourselves mostly through www.booking.com which was excellent. We could reserve the places without having to pay for them! A cancellation fee was only added a week before the trip. This gave us piece of mind as a lot can happen in 6 months! We booked our flights with SAS. They were excellent to fly with and it was really easy to manage our booking through their app. The only thing we couldn't book was the ferry but I emailed the company and they replied straight away and said the new timetable would be out in January. How we were going to manage the excitement for 6 months was probably the hardest part!
Day 1 - Manchester Airport to Bodo
We flew from Manchester on Sunday evening to Oslo and then onto Bodo. Our flight schedule was changed slightly so we ended up in Bodo just before midnight! Both flights were very smooth and apart from the snow storm coming into Bodo the journey past very pleasantly. The boys are well travelled so they actually enjoyed standing in the taxi queue chatting to the people around them (helped by the heated shelter)! After a short wait we were on our way to the Radisson Blu in Bodo for what was left of the night!
Be aware that when I googled the price of the taxi from the airport to the hotel (5mins) it said £5-£7 but it was £15!!! We thought it was because of the time but when we went back the next day to pick up the hire car it was still £15. Welcome to Norway.......
Day 2 - Bodo to Hamnoya
We woke in the morning to grey skies and snow. A lovely breakfast and a walk in the snow was the order of the morning as we were not due to pick the car up until noon.
Bodo itself felt like just a stopover place but I think with more time for exploring we would have seen the better side of it. We were soon packed and ready to head back to the airport to pick up the hire car. We had booked the car through SIXT. The cost for the 9 days was about £380 plus additional £40 for the children's car seats. It is best to book the car seats with your original booking. We didn't and we were lucky they had 2 available! However I can't fault the service and we were even upgraded to a bigger car which happened to be a brand new Ford Focus estate! Once we had worked out how to use the handbrake we were away to the supermarket to get last minute provisions!
Stocked up and ready to go we headed to the ferry terminal for a couple of hours wait. We had already taken most of the food we were planning on eating with us for the week. Staying in self catering was great as we were not sure what the options were to eat apart from expensive restaurants!
The boarding of the ferry was very quick and we were soon off. We sailed on the ferry with https://www.torghatten-nord.no/english/ you can view timetables and book tickets on this link. There is an express boat and a ferry out to the Islands. We were headed directly for Moskenes.
Everything I had read about the ferry was that it was rough and if you suffered from sea sickness this was not a good route to the Islands! However we were extremely lucky as the crossing on the way out only saw one wave come over the front and the crossing home was flat calm! Just over 3 hours later we arrived in Moskenes just after 20.00. We were just losing the light but you could still see the amphitheatre of snowy mountains that greeted our arrival! Even in poor light and snowy weather the scenery was breathtaking!
The boarding of the ferry was very quick and we were soon off. We sailed on the ferry with https://www.torghatten-nord.no/english/ you can view timetables and book tickets on this link. There is an express boat and a ferry out to the Islands. We were headed directly for Moskenes.
We were staying at Eliassen Rorbuer. The place is probably the most photographed place in Lofoten and you can see why! You only have to walk metres from your door to get amazing views! With the light changing so quickly you never took two photo's the same!
You couldn't fault the service from Eliassen they even have an app for you to download and manage your booking! We were to stay 4 days here!
Day 3 - Getting our Bearings!
The cabin was very cosy and comfortable. In usual tradition the cabin already looked like we had been there a week!
The grey light did not dampen spirits at all. We were used to Easter holidays on the Scottish islands and knew that the weather could turn at any time.
The weather was set to break in the evening according to the weather forecast and I must admit I couldn't quite believe it given the grey cloud cover! As we sat down for tea I noticed the light changing outside the window and when I walked to the fjord I was treated to the best view of the trip so far.
The light continued to change and light the fjord. I rushed back to the cabin and collected the big man as this view had to be shared! I also needed a model for some foreground!
The next few hours were spent watching the clouds dissipate as forecast and so attention turned to our trusty Glendale Skye Aurora app because just maybe we would be lucky and get a glimpse of the Northern lights. Truth be told we promised we would not worry about seeing the Aurora as we had been so lucky in Tromso and we were coming to the end of the Aurora season...... however secretly we were hoping for a glimpse! Being in the aurora zone meant we had a good chance of seeing it regardless of any major activity. We would never lose the twilight so there would have to be some strength in the aurora for us to see it. Nevertheless the tripod came out and I was stood waiting on the Hamnoya bridge hoping for a glimpse of the green streak. There was another couple stood just up from me waiting and all of a sudden a grey streak appeared to the right of me. Cameras and tripods were adjusted and excitement increased.
I was trying to get a view not obstructed by the pylons on the side of the road or effected by the cabin lights so I climbed onto some rocks next to the sea and watched in amazement as I stood once again under the best light show on earth! I couldn't believe my luck.
No words can describe the feeling of standing under the Northern Light for me, it is just one of life's moments that will never be forgotten. As the last strand of light left the sky I wandered back to the cabin just in awe of what I had seen on the first full day on the Lofoten Islands.
Day 4 - More Beach Hunting
We knew we had one more day of grey weather before it improved so we decided to take a trip up to Sandbotnen bay and have a walk and play on the beach. We had to make a shop stop to stock up on provisions so headed to Reine for a look first.
The prawn sandwich was soon calling so we headed back to the cabin for lunch and a spot of afternoon fishing! You are always not far from the fish racks or the fish heads on the Lofoten Islands so the big man thought he would land a big cod with little effort! We were hoping nothing would be caught as neither of us were brave enough to remove whatever was caught from the hook!
Day 5 - Kvalvika Beach and More Northern Lights
The forecast had been right, we were to be treated to sun and blue sky. We had decided to change our plans slightly and head to Nusfjord first before the walk so we could catch the tide right. We wanted to make sure we didn't arrive at the beach at high tide! It was one of the key considerations each day when visiting all the stunning beaches Lofoten has to offer! Picnic packed and it was time to drive the same road but this time with a very different light to show off the best of Lofoten!
The drive itself to Nusfjord was stunning! The roads were amazing on the islands not a pot hole in sight! They were plenty wide enough to pass the lorries that would buzz about the islands. With very few people on the road and a top speed limit of 50mph it was easy to enjoy the views! We turned off the main road to Nusfjord passing mountain after mountain and frozen fjords. It was a winter wonderland! Jaw dropping views in every direction. It just left you speechless!
Nusfjord had been recommended to us to visit and we could see why! We parked in the car park and walked down to where the main cabins seemed to be. It was not hard to imagine tired fishermen mooring at Nusfjord for the night. I often thought as my hands suffered with the cold and the skin began to peel how hard it must be out in this cold on the sea.
We were lucky to have the place to ourselves as were walked around the small harbour. The boys were intrigued by the fish hanging from the racks and the boats moored in the harbour. There was a little walk way up onto the rocks to give a stunning view back down the fjord and out to sea.
You could feel the history around Nusfjord. It was once one of Norways leading fish buying stations of all time. We were constantly wondered why so many fish racks and so many fish heads. We were told that the fish are hung to preserve until the summer and salted naturally by the sea air to then be sold to eat. The heads are sent to Africa and grounded for soup and flour. The quantity we saw on the island was mind blowing!
Stomachs rumbling it was time to find a spot for lunch before the walk to the beach. We had passed a quaint little picnic area with a set of swings, this was the popular choice by the boys for lunch!
The temperature was just above freezing so not really the weather to sit around and eat for too long! At times it felt like we were the only people on the islands but we kept thinking in the height of summer this would be a very different experience! As the time for high tide approached it was time for us to start our walk to the beach. The small car park was soon found and the walk up to the pass began.
The walk started on a boardwalk enabling you to avoid the bog! It climbed gradually from the fjord and the views were mesmerising. The snow was still quite deep in places and we were starting to regret not putting the micro spikes in when it started getting icy! Undeterred we made our way over the pass across a snowfield and then a very dodgy descent to the beach on sheet ice and rock. It was turning out to be a great adventure! As the beach came into view we were stopped in our tracks! The view was simply stunning.
It took quite a long time to get down to the beach with every step carefully made! The path was under snow so route finding was interesting too! Down safely we stood in awe at the views in all directions and the boys in usual fashion got out the bucket and spade!
It was soon time to head back up to the pass and over to the car. We decided to make a straight line scramble off the beach which turned out to be a good move! A couple were heading down towards us but soon decided to turn back given the icy descent! It's amazing how a simple walk in summer can be such an adventure in the snow and the ice. It's not often the ascent is quicker than the descent but we were back at the pass very quickly in comparison to our icy trek down to the beach!
We sat and refuelled as the boys explored the big rocks and snow holes. We were enjoying the ability to relax and enjoy the scenery feeling like we had all the time in the world! Certainly a world away from the usual timetabled routines of everyday life!
As the path steepened through the trees there was only one way the boys were getting down! A self made toboggan run through the trees. We had great fun and finished the walk with big smiles. Back to the cabin for tea and the big man insisted on more fishing!
The sun started to set and so the minds turned to the Aurora app to see what the chances were with clear skies forecast. With the boys safely in bed H soon kicked me out to report back on any green streaks in the sky! With a bit of a breeze it was very cold standing awaiting any glimpse. No storms forecast but with unsettled conditions anything was possible. With only a small glimpse I was soon back in the cabin only to be told by H that I was just spoilt and should be thankful for any show! Well that told me.... Our last night in Eliassen and we were very sad to be moving but we were looking forward to exploring more of the Islands. We would move to Ballstad and the plan was to explore more beaches. The weather was set to be nice once again.
Day 6 - Moving to Ballstad and More Amazing Beaches
All packed up and ready to go we headed for two beaches called Vik and Haukland. The weather was once again fantastic and the drive was spectacular.
The first beach we came to was Vik beach, a small little beach with views in every direction. The sea was green and the snow on the beach gave an idea of how cold parts of it were! We parked and let the boys explore and run. A few games of tag kept us warm! It was one of those places you didn't want to leave!
Although the sea was flat calm there were still surfers paddling out. The views out to sea were mesmerising. With the traditional sand castle built and a paddle in the sea fully clothed (the boys!) it was soon time to head back to the car for lunch. We decided to take a short trip through the tunnel to the last beach of the day Uttakleiv.
The tunnel was built for safe passage for the villagers in place of the rough track over the mountain or around the headland. The beach was rocky on the one side and widened to a sandy expanse. The wind was blowing and it was so cold. After a very short wander we headed back to the car and onward to our new accommodation in Ballstad.
When I researched our trip Solsiden Brygge was highly recommended. It must be said that when we arrived in Ballstad it felt a lot busier than where we had previously stayed and we thought we might have made a mistake. However when we walked from the car park to the reception area for our accommodation all that changed!
The staff at Solsiden Brygge were exemplary! So friendly, kind and very helpful! It was a comedy moment when we were told we had one of the newly renovated cabins which was very posh and a glance was then made to the two wild boys poking the dead fish on display in the reception area! We did have a chuckle!
The gentleman checking us in showed the boys the hole in the floor where you could look through to the water and see numerous fish and crabs. After the boys asked about one hundred questions about the fish, we were shown to our cabin. As we walked in we couldn't believe our luck. The place was simply stunning....As if the trip couldn't get any better!
The gentleman checking us in showed the boys the hole in the floor where you could look through to the water and see numerous fish and crabs. After the boys asked about one hundred questions about the fish, we were shown to our cabin. As we walked in we couldn't believe our luck. The place was simply stunning....As if the trip couldn't get any better!
It didn't take long for it to look like we had been there a week! Once unpacked we were dragged out onto the harbour to fish! Where we were staying was still a working fishing village and a short distance away was a fish oil factory of sorts. The local fishermen were so friendly. A boat had just come in with some of the biggest fish we had ever seen. We struggled to lift it when one of the fishermen allowed the boys to hold one after they had approached the fish laid out on the pontoon with curiosity!
It was then the big man's turn to hook one himself. We counted 27 fish caught and thrown back! The harbour was carpeted in them! The fishermen seemed impressed with the big mans rod skills and just laughed at us when we squeamishly removed the fish from the hook each time!
Tea time and the end of a great day! With every clear night attention turned to the Aurora apps. The only question was where would be the best place to stand! A local lady who we spoke to told us that there was a little lighthouse beyond the factory that had little light pollution. The harbour would be quite bright so I had little choice but to venture out. The problem was I had to walk through a lane of fish racks in the dark and I had to stop myself imagining a great set for a horror movie! Needless to say the walk was at a pace!
Looking out to sea I saw a trawler leave just after 10pm with lights beaming and I could only think how tough life on the sea must be out here! As my mind wandered the green streak appeared. About 30 minutes later I started to get excited as it danced above my head! Not easy to photography I just stood in awe.
Looking out to sea I saw a trawler leave just after 10pm with lights beaming and I could only think how tough life on the sea must be out here! As my mind wandered the green streak appeared. About 30 minutes later I started to get excited as it danced above my head! Not easy to photography I just stood in awe.
Once the activity dropped I packed up the tripod and headed back to the cabin to show H some pics. It was becoming a bit of a routine! What a day!
Day 7 - Henningsvaer
Henningsvaer we were told is the Venice of Lofoten. The drive was about an hour and it was once again spectacular. Must admit the constant change of speed limit from 50 to 40 was a little draining. We stopped numerous times to admire the view. We passed a landscape sculpture which took us a while to work out what it was all about!
Once we reached the outskirts of the town we parked in quite a sizeable car park and wandered. As we walked H kept saying 'why do I know this place?' then it dawned on her that it was one of the places she wanted to visit because of the football pitch! A drone photo of the football pitch had been posted on instagram and showed its stunning location. So off we went in search of the pitch.
It wasn't long before we came across a sign for the pitch! The facility belonged to Henningsvaer FC and was surrounded by fish racks, islands and sea. It was stunning!
There was even a play park so the boys were happy. On the way back we visited a gift shop and a Northern Lights gallery. The place was very interesting. We had hoped to go on some sort of boat trip but were satisfied with just a wander around the town.
Time to leave and head towards Svolvaer the biggest town on Lofoten. It was getting late so we decided not to stay long. We enjoyed the journey back and after tea chilled while the boys did some fishing in the harbour.
Day 8 - Unstad and A Spectacular Run
The morning light was just lovely when we woke so I had to take a wander before breakfast. There was never a shortage of places to explore where we were staying.
The plan was to go to Unstad beach to watch the surfers. The weather was still holding although a small dusting of snow and low temperatures made the drive quite interesting. The views as we turned off the main road were spectacular.
The tide was just going out so and the surfers started to arrive. You could see banks of seaweed telling the tale of a beach that gets battered by the power of the waves. The icy wind was cutting so it was important to keep moving! There was always something of interest to watch or see on the Lofoten Islands. Struggling to even take my gloves off I struggled to even contemplate going into the sea to surf but there were plenty of brave souls who did!
A lady stopped to chat about the sandcastles that we were building and we soon chatted about where we were from and just about life in general. There are some people you meet who you are just in awe of and this lady was one of them. Apart from her amazing English she was just awe inspiring.
Time to head back for lunch and the plan was for a little walk in the afternoon to experience the view over Ballstad. The journey on the islands is never fast due to the many places to stop and admire. After lunch the aim was to try and walk up to a plateau on the local mountains for a view over Ballstad. We had got talking to a man who lived on one of the boats in the harbour and he had recommended it. There was still a bit of snow on the paths so we would see how far we got. It didn't help that we started in a snow storm.
The path was steep but the views were stunning all the way. We reached the a view point half way up and then decided to turn back as the path looked too dodgy with the little one. The views had been worth the short effort.
Curious to see what it was like on top I decided to have a run and find out! I had packed my micro spikes in case the opportunity arose to sneak in a run! The moment had arisen and excitement was bubbling as I set off back up the path we had walked. I popped out onto a big plateau and followed the edge with another fantastic view over Ballstad. Standing on the peak I had watched the Northern Lights dance over only 2 nights ago was magical.
Day 8- Last Full Day on the Islands and Staying at A
Usually I would be very excited waking up to snow but in this instance I was a little anxious as we had a 40 miles journey to our new accommodation at the bottom of the islands. However the fresh snow transformed the morning landscape into a winter wonderland. The weather was due to improve so we made the most of the new snow and reluctantly finished packing.
It was soon time to say a fond farewell to Ballstad and head to A. The roads were unbelievably clear considering the morning snowfall and the fresh snow and blue sky made for a very pleasant drive.
We decided to stop at Flakstad beach on the way down as the sun was shining and the fresh snow would give a different view.
We had great fun playing by the fjord and it is always good to reinforce with the boys the dangers of ice and as the ice slightly cracked as they walked on the shallow shoreline, they soon realised what we were talking about. We traced our steps back to the road and headed into the little fishing village and on to the pier. We sat and admired the scenery out to sea and back towards our accommodation. 
The lights started to fade so I headed back through the snowfield and woods to the road. A Norwegian man was sat outside his house enjoying a drink for the night and the light show no doubt. He beckoned me over and we had a very pleasant chat trying to understand each other conversing in Norwegian and English! I bid him a goodnight and skipped happily up the road. It is always hard to sleep after seeing the Aurora as the excitement and adrenaline continue to run through the body. I would have 5 hours sleep before catching the ferry home in the morning.
Day 9 - The Lofoten Islands to Cumbria
We had plenty of time to drop the car off at the airport, have lunch and catch our flight to Oslo at 14.55. The take off out of Bodo was very exciting up over the mountains! A nervous glance across to H confirmed I was not the only one thinking the take off was exciting! However the views from the plane were amazing ( a sore point of discussion as I had a window seat and H had her window blocked by a women constantly looking out!).
A goodnights sleep was needed before a morning spent reminiscing about what had been an amazing trip in every sense. We were very proud of the boys and only hope that it will once again inspire them to visit the amazing places we are lucky to live amongst. We knew the next few weeks would be the hardest as we try to recover mentally more than physically from visiting the Lofoten Islands and we were not wrong...........The End
