Loch Dunvegan to Stein

We headed across to Dunvegan to stay at Kinloch campsite at the head of the Loch. The campsite is great with a fantastic view. This was the second time we had stayed at this campsite. The first time we attempted this trip we could not get the kayaks off the roof for the wind so we were back to avenge our disappointment.

 We decided to launch just up from Dunvegan Castle, leaving one of the vehicles at Stein for the end. There are many seal boats that operate in this area and it was easy to see why with many seals being spotted along the way. The wildlife haven of Gairbh Eilein was the first place to explore.

The next place we headed for was Eilean Dubh before heading north up the Loch. The wind was picking up and making the Loch quite choppy.

We arrived at Lampay with the coral beach in sight. The colour of the water was stunning and the coral was spectacular. It was an ideal place to stop but we certainly were not on our own with many walkers around.

 It was time to get the kettle on and take in the view that was stunning even on a grey windy day. We were unsure about heading to Islay and Mingay. The wind was certainly increasing and in a double the effect of the wind can certainly be felt.

Neil Brewing up

H enjoying the Coral

We decided to head to Islay and Mingay hoping that the North side of the Island will offer some shelter. The remains of the Old house on Islay was the scene of a gruesome massacre in the 16th Century over an inheritance dispute.

A little visitor off Lampay

The paddle around the East side of Clett and back to Islay was tough and quite choppy at times. We paddled hard and sheltered in the lea of the mainland before heading across to Stein. We were a little worried about the cross wind but aimed high and reached the pier with little issue. It was the last paddle of what had been a fantastic trip. Scotland truly is a magical place in a sea kayak and we were lucky to experience it for 6 full days!

Landing at Stein

Loch Bracadale

From the Summer Isles we were to stop off at Applecross and chill out for a couple of days whilst the weather turned back to the light winds we had been enjoying. A paddle to the Crowlin Islands was good but tough into a headwind. Nothing a good couple of nights in the Applecross Inn would not fix! Neil caught up with old friends and I had the pleasure and responsibility of removing a tick from H's leg! After two days we headed to the Isle of Skye and Loch Bracadale.

We launched at Camas Ban, Harlosh and the weather was not to disappoint! Excitement was building as we unloaded the boats and looked out into a spectacular view down Loch Bracadale.

We headed off exploring every nook and cranny along the way towards Harlosh Point. On the way we could hear a blow hole and it did not take us long before we found what was making all the noise!

We passed Harlosh Island which had been earmarked as a great brew stop on the way back. The plan was to circumnavigate Wiay Island. A2km crossing took us across to Camas na Cille where we landed for our first brew stop.

Crossing to Wiay Island

Extensive Cliffs

First Brew Stop

There have been no inhabitants on Wiay Island since 1890. On exploration we found the old ruins of houses. The view was stunning but there was still lots to see. We packed up and floated the boats out through seaweed and rocks that had been exposed by the out going tide.

The sea cliffs were spectacular and there was little swell to stop exploration. Neil and Jim stayed close to the coast ensuring that they made the most of every opportunity to explore. It wasn't long before we had rounded the South West side of Wiay into Geodha nan Faochag.

There are numerous inlets and caves to explore. There is a cave that is 59m big and they say it will house a family of giants! It is extremely dark and noisy! Neil and Jim dared to go in deep whilst in a double we backed in slowly to ensure we made a quick escape if needed!

Watching from a

We continued to explore the Island and head for Tarner Island. Along the way we encountered a natural sea arch and a few more caves. The scenery was spectacular and the camera did not get a rest!

A Natural Sea Arch

We decided to paddle the west side of Tarner Island and back across to Harlosh Island for a brew. The towering cliffs were changing constantly. All of a sudden we could hear splashing in the water, it turned out to be a shoal of fish. Heading back to Harlosh Island the light was fantastic showing off the golden white sand.

It was time to get the kettle on and enjoy the final brew stop of the trip. The beach that we landed on was awesome with bright white sand and a great bay in which to land. Evening was approaching and a campsite on Loch Dunvegan was calling. We packed up and headed back to the kayaks. Neil thought that it would be funny to put a sea urchin shell on my seat! I was not amused!

The Loch did not have a ripple on it and the paddle back was very tranquil. We rounded Harlosh Point and headed back to Camas Ban. The paddle was one of the best we had done with spectacular scenery every single paddle stroke of the trip!

Neil and Jim heading into Camas Ban

Summer Isles Sea Kayak

Following our paddle on Loch Maree we decided to take advantage of the light winds forecast and head for a two dayer on the Summer Isles. The route was taken out of the scottish sea kayaking book. We decided to head across to Ullapool and then head North to Altandhu. The drive across was stunning with great views all the way. Ullapool looked a cool place and home to the ferry to Stornoway.

Calmac heading for Stornoway

The road with stunning views

The plan was to head for Althandu and leave the vehicles and head off to the Summer Isles. We had seen that there was campsite at Althandu but reports were saying that it was not quite open. This was correct they were still building it! However the people were lovely and allowed us to leave our vans and pointed us towards other facilities we could use! We would totally recommend this campsite as a base to explore this awesome sea kayaking haven! The campsite is now open! Port a Bhaigh Campsite.  

Port a Bhaigh Campsite

We decided to watch the weather and if possible try to stay overnight on one of the Islands where we could find an appropriate place to camp. With the sea kayaks laden we saddled up the trolleys and negotiated the rocks and pools down the slip way to launch. 

What we hadn't accounted for was the spring tide being out and leaving a portage through to Old Dornie our intended route! This was not too much of an issue as the causeway was full of pools that you could float the boats across.

The sea life left behind by the tide was fascinating and we spent time exploring before getting back in the Kayaks and heading out past Old Dornie towards Tanera Beg and Tanera More. There were many small islands and inlets to explore and with the stunning weather and calm seas we were able to get close!

The Torridonian hills were a spectacular backdrop! We kept pinching ourselves! The forecast came through on the radio that the light winds would continue until tomorrow afternoon so as long as we got out early in the morning then we would avoid the force 5/6 that would entertain us in the afternoon. There were reports of a sea arch and caves so we were all very excited.

We headed for the Anchorage which has existed since the 1700's housing many fishing vessels bringing herring into the fishing station at Tigh an Quay. However very different today as leisure boats are the usual visitors. Tanera More is the only inhabited island in the Summer Isles and it wasn't long before we headed around the South side heading for the caves and sea arch.

Sea Cave worth a look

Sea Arch

We headed east side of Tanera Beg having spotted a great place to camp for the night. We circumnavigated Eilean Flada Mor where a seal colony would be waiting for us! This was such a tranquil and stunning place!

Before camp we decided to head around the west side of Tanera Beg and the conditions changed with much more swell! Although no tidal streams this is not a place to get complacent in! We headed back to the camp and struggled up the rocky beach but it was well worth it!!

Team work

The coolest place to camp!

It was time for tea and Neil cooked up his usual high standard food whilst we settled for our usual slop! At least we had a good view to eat it! After the washing up it was time to head for the highest hill to watch the sun drop! What a place this was.

Looking back at the camp

The sun dropping on a great day!

Team pic

Not a bad view for the evening

It was soon time to head back to camp and reflect with a brew on what had been a great day. Soon discussion turned to the next day. The plan would be to head for a small group of islands, heading then for Eilean Duhb.

The next day was a huge contrast to the day before. It was brew time and the view from the tent was not quite the same as the day before. The plan was still to head out and get back before the weather hits us in the afternoon.

Enjoying a good Summer Isles Brew

The view had changed a little! That's where we were heading

The tents were soon packed up and we were heading for the small islands in front. There was the sound of a big boat around and it soon appeared out of the mist behind us! 

The paddle across although feeling very grey was still enjoyable. There was a little more swell than the day before but around the south side of the islands the water was again like a glass pond. 

We decided to stop for a quick brew on a little beach that we found. Neil had not packed lunch for the day so was not happy when we started eating our pre-prepared feast! As we headed for Eilean Dubh we came across a shoal of fish. It was a surreal experience! 

We headed back across to Tanera Beg and through Eilean Flada Mor. The conditions were starting to change with the wind increasing. The paddle back was interesting and tiring! 

Turning around the Isle of Ristol was a welcomed relief. We paddled back to the campsite reunited with our vans. It had been a great 2 days but you could easily spend a week. We had only scratched the surface! There was a weather system coming in for the next few days so we decided to head for Applecross and the Crowlins before the Isle of Skye and Loch Bracadale!